Arkhangelsk-Mezen Road // Pomórye of Winter

Arkhangelsk-Mezen Road


Arkhangelsk-Mezen Road

Published:

Took place on: 2026-02-18

The perfect North. The taiga, the tundra, and the villages—all on a frosty, clear day with rime covering every crown.


Pomórye of Winter

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We woke up early in the morning and checked out of the hotel at half past six. But there was no need to rush anyway—the driver didn't arrive at the scheduled time. He was half an hour late. However, as the guide describes, this is a one-off case, and usually, that transport company is quite punctual.

This company was founded in Mezen and specializes specifically in the route from there to the regional capital, even back when the road was in a much more deplorable condition.


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approaching threateningly

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approaching threateningly

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Most of the houses (up to approximately the Pinega River) have a very similar log structure.

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Most of the houses (up to approximately the Pinega River) have a very similar log structure.

It is a single-story building (+ attic) with five walls (a central wall separates the households), with 3 windows on each side, and a common attic that is narrow and has 3 windows.

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It is a single-story building (+ attic) with five walls (a central wall separates the households), with 3 windows on each side, and a common attic that is narrow and has 3 windows.

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Colors in this snowfall

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Colors in this snowfall

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Somewhere near Golubino. It's a recreation center that suddenly came to life thanks to someone's investment 10 years ago.

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Somewhere near Golubino. It's a recreation center that suddenly came to life thanks to someone's investment 10 years ago.

Panorama! High resolution. On the right, you can notice the local yellow soil.

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Panorama! High resolution. On the right, you can notice the local yellow soil.

Showing off my panoramic lens and the screen that can flip for selfies :p

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Showing off my panoramic lens and the screen that can flip for selfies :p

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The main intermediate point is the settlement of Pinega, which, regarding the Pinezhsky District... is not its center (that status belongs to Kargory). However, the point is well-known—Golitsyn, Alexander Grin, and Voroshilov were exiled here, among others. The old town is preserved. Nearby are many karst caves and the (abandoned) Krasnogorsky Monastery.


Even in Pinega, they even built stone buildings!!

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Even in Pinega, they even built stone buildings!!

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We pulled into a gas station.

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We pulled into a gas station.

How cute she is!

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How cute she is!

And she's so fluffy! I don't think I've ever touched fur as pleasant as this.

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And she's so fluffy! I don't think I've ever touched fur as pleasant as this.

Well, now the entire SD card is full of her photos.

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Well, now the entire SD card is full of her photos.

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She then loved to rub against the lens.

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She then loved to rub against the lens.


Later, the sun came out and dazzling beauty unfolded.


Time does not stand still. And Baba Yaga keeps pace with the times.

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Time does not stand still. And Baba Yaga keeps pace with the times.

Kulugory is literally just this row of houses. Beyond it, the settlement ends.

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Kulugory is literally just this row of houses. Beyond it, the settlement ends.

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They bow to us.

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They bow to us.

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A slight bow from the oils.

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A slight bow from the oils.

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From Pinega to Mezen — it is almost straight north. Soon, the forest-tundra begins. I was always puzzled as to why, in certain sections, the forest is quite alive, while in others, there are nothing but open clearings.

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From Pinega to Mezen — it is almost straight north. Soon, the forest-tundra begins. I was always puzzled as to why, in certain sections, the forest is quite alive, while in others, there are nothing but open clearings.

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Even the exhaust gases are snow-white.

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Even the exhaust gases are snow-white.

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I am amazed at how quickly the taiga is shrinking into tundra.

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I am amazed at how quickly the taiga is shrinking into tundra.

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It's turned into a complete tundra.

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It's turned into a complete tundra.

Oh no, there are still glimpses of the taiga.

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Oh no, there are still glimpses of the taiga.

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Pontoon bridge across Peza. As I understand it, they remove it after winter and set up a ferry crossing.

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Pontoon bridge across Peza. As I understand it, they remove it after winter and set up a ferry crossing.

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It's terrible how much frost there is.

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It's terrible how much frost there is.



At the turn toward Dorogorskoye, there is a relatively recent pedestal (from ~2020), although in terms of style, it is a perfect late-Soviet style of the 1980s for various small-scale architecture in resorts.

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At the turn toward Dorogorskoye, there is a relatively recent pedestal (from ~2020), although in terms of style, it is a perfect late-Soviet style of the 1980s for various small-scale architecture in resorts.

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Eyes are filled with blood.

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Eyes are filled with blood.