From Srinagar to Kargil // SAYA.UZ

Published: 2025-10-25 18:07:20 +07:00

Took place on: 2025-09-13

This whole way is just mountains, and mountains, and mountains... Turning dry as we delve into Ladakh

Driving off Srinagar this morning. I've had positive impressions of it and its people.

Kashmir valley, this large canyon girded with ridges all the way, narrows down as we go north. I would be happy to get back here. :D

Its weather is quite different from such of mainland India. While Indian seasons are dry and wet, and it's with some degrees, but always hot, Kashmir enjoys at least a few degrees less temperature during the summer and usually experiencing snowfalls during the winter. I find it interesting, that such the region is still as densely populated as India.

Entering a tunnel, turning off camera as there are such rules

I should also point out, that the local art of building also differs and seems more organized and characterized.

The style here up the mounts is really cheap and minimalistic, but the houses are spread out.

The tunnel we drove through for 15 minutes was really good lit and equipped. Like, man, emergency exists every half a kilometer and even pockets for urgent parking!

The only tunnel I've had bad impressions about was on our way from Manali to Mandi (the last day of our trip, already left Ladakh and almost got to mainland India), which lacked any lighting.

Soon we'll come to Zodji La with its many loops on serpentines

One moment we had to stop, alongside with most of our lane, for half an hour. The thing with local roads is that some sections are so narrow, they're effectively one lane due to intercity buses and trucks. And the only vehicle capable to drive along them is a motorcycle. And also there are shepherds with hundreds of sheep, it's not like there are other roads up here!

Exercising

Let's photo, why not, while there is this traffic jam

Kashmiri students. Most common hijab in this region is covering shoulders and chest. There are no rules or laws about it, but usually the only women who do not wear headscarves are tourists.

Here I'm reminded by Prigozhin and his march to Moscow...

He's a meme in Russia, you know, especially his voice messages :D

This field is equipped with some tube structures for some reason

What if these sheep are trained?

I'm sorry for some photos, they were mostly taken through the minivan's window on the back row, so some feature terrifying haze I can't clean :'(

Here I was inspired to recolor it

Now we'd begun our slow advance into the pass. It was a really dusty road. Landscapes shift from forests to steppes or even sand/stone deserts.

This road is, surprise, tiled!

As I understand, tiles were a next priority, if asphalt couldn't be poured

Pros: pretty!

Cons: this landslide could have led to a couple of deaths and highway shutdown

Yay! Snow peaks!

Vinaigrette

Who said that Muslims...

...couldn't get along with Hindus?

That's the border between Kashmir and Ladakh. So, any changes in environment?

...not really. It's over 75 years as they live in united India, and they were united territory before 2019. If one wants more Tibetan tints, he should drive across Kargil.

But Western Ladakh (Kargil area) does differ culturally from Kashmir... just like from Eastern Ladakh (Leh area). You see, on the west are Sunni Muslims, on the east are Buddhists, but here are... Shia Muslims! How did they end up here, I haven't researched yet, but it must be an interesting read.

The predominant language here though is of Tibetan group, but still different than that of Leh.

The houses are still grayish

That must be apricot trees -- the favorite fruit of Ladakhis

Some bold photoshopping

You should've known how hazy it was in the raw image, oof

The man's labour transforms Ladakh.

The lifeless landscapes, with a short layer of grass growing, shift into forests and plantations.

It's even more evident on the east, where climate is even harsher.

The Dras town. Just skipping it.

The mosque here is quite typical for Kashmir and this part of Ladakh. They're painted & ornamented in white & green, and the walls look so light. A part of building is terraces, both window covered or not. The windows are traditionally Kashmiri, with quaint wooden sashes.

Close to Dras is Kargil war memorial. It was founded in the memory of 1999 Kargil War.

In short:

In May some Pakistani corps take some heights in the Kargil area.
The Pakistani premier finds out about this operation from the Indian side.
India gathered some troops and took back the region by August.
In October Pakistan had another military coup, with premier getting pushed out.

I found 2 and 4 points to be quite hilarious about this conflict, showing how autonomous Pakistani army was.

The memorial, besides a flagpole and its boards of honor, features a museum with the conflict history, trophies and exposition of its heroes. All in English.

What made the people settle here?