Tuzbair. A lake, a salt marsh, a mount
Published:
Took place on: 2025-04-16; 2025-04-17
Deep into salt marsh, along the ridge
Tuzbair is one of the main sightseeings of Mangistau. Tourists come here for "nostrils", grandiose gullies and salt marsh (if there was no rain for a week at least).
How vast...
1How vast...
During dry seasons it is possible to ride and walk freely around salt marsh. Like now!
2During dry seasons it is possible to ride and walk freely around salt marsh. Like now!
Mind sitting here?
3Mind sitting here?
We rode down. Imagine it's a panorama. I couldn't glue it together. :(
Looking from the foothills, you see this desert
1Looking from the foothills, you see this desert
Walk a bit deeper -- you see a Tuzbair battleship!
2Walk a bit deeper -- you see a Tuzbair battleship!
Halfway between Order and Chaos
4Halfway between Order and Chaos
When I wrote about immense gullies, I meant them:
I met chilipizdriks (unknown weird small things) here. The closest I saw on iNaturalist is Glaucous Glasswort, or other kind of glasswort (like Halocnemum strobilaceum). But never one with such stiffened stem.
But this species is, most probably, a wingless booklice (Mesopsocus unipunctatus). The tiniest fella I photoed by now. I guess he feeds on those glassworts.
Sunset time!
Seats for picture here
2Seats for picture here
It's those «nostries», btw
4It's those «nostries», btw
Next morning we're coming deep into salt marsh.
By the foothills of Tuzbair ridge is crumbly sand with foothills and cracks all over it. These get watered down by a rare rain, when a salt marsh becomes bog for some time.
This sand is coated with salt, somewhere more dense, somewhere less. Here even low bushes and glassworts grow.
With exploring down the lake you get attacked by a howling wind. Footsteps get rarer with more distance, life is no more.
1With exploring down the lake you get attacked by a howling wind. Footsteps get rarer with more distance, life is no more.
The next level is sludgy sand. Cracks are less evident, your feet delve deeper to some moist.
2The next level is sludgy sand. Cracks are less evident, your feet delve deeper to some moist.
You think, maybe meters 50-100, and you'll get into quicksand -- a sign not to go further.
3You think, maybe meters 50-100, and you'll get into quicksand -- a sign not to go further.
Meanwhile salt forms these stark gradients with sand
4Meanwhile salt forms these stark gradients with sand
The adventure, though, is not over. The ground does become harder, maybe, due to salt.
1The adventure, though, is not over. The ground does become harder, maybe, due to salt.
Salt starts to form small slabs, cover the trails of jeeps and steps of tourists, conserving them.
2Salt starts to form small slabs, cover the trails of jeeps and steps of tourists, conserving them.
And this frosty howling wind is never-ending.
3And this frosty howling wind is never-ending.
Your bones are scraped clean by the desolate wind. Your Vault will now surely die, as you have.
1Your bones are scraped clean by the desolate wind. Your Vault will now surely die, as you have.
There is more and more salt, your steps are lonely in this world.
By the end, the salt grains crystallize to bigger entities, resembling teeth.
1By the end, the salt grains crystallize to bigger entities, resembling teeth.
Water coming under my steps.
2Water coming under my steps.
This is it. A salt desert, shining under scorching sun.
6This is it. A salt desert, shining under scorching sun.
I didn't step further, but I might except even larger crystals and maybe even lake itself.
This walk was really awe-inspiring. It's like I started to imagine radically new fantasy worlds with a deep sentimental value. I can paste this track which played in my head on my farthest steps there.